We rode our horses up the adjacent cliffs along grassy hillsides and fields of maize until we arrived at Moray. Moray is a deep, amphitheaterlike structure carved out of the earth. Many researchers believe it to be some form of an Inca crop laboratory. Each leveled terrace is a microclimate all determined by the elevation and angle of the sun. Visitors are allowed to climb down each terrace at leisure and venture all the way to the bottom.
The end of our ride led us to the village of Maras and a personal walking tour by our guide. We were introduced to two researchers who were finding ways to improve irrigation techniques and help farmers in the area be self-sufficient and profitable. Throughout the village we were greeted by friendly Peruvians, including Albizu's father, who were very hospitable and honored we had spent time learning about their culture.
Machu Picchu
The excursion to Machu Picchu begins in the small village of Aguas Calientes. A three-hour train ride from the outskirts of Cuzco takes you to this tiny town nestled between the Andes along a winding river gorge. The only point of entry to Machu Picchu caters to tourists. Colorful restaurants and souvenir shops are stacked on top of each other to create a maze of entertainment along the banks of the river. Backpackers stroll leisurely through steep cobblestone walkways. Michael and I immediately bought two days' worth of tickets to Machu Picchu - one for the afternoon and another to watch the sunrise and see the fog lift the next day.
The bus trip up the mountain to get to the ruins is not for the faint of heart. The unpaved switchbacks are often muddy and have no guardrails to offer protection along steep cliffs. Once you "survive" the bus ride and wait in the entrance line, the ruins are all yours to explore.
Machu Picchu is surrounded by mountains of lush vegetation and is nestled at an elevation of 7,900 feet between steep peaks. The site was abandoned and forgotten, but never discovered by the Spanish. It was rediscovered by American archeologist Hiram Bingham, who was guided to it by local residents in 1911. Researchers believe the area must have been of high importance due to the intricate architecture and massive size of the city. The Temple of the Sun, the only round building in the ruins, was built for astrological purposes. The Intihuatana stone determined precise dates of the solstices and equinoxes. Structures such as the Temple of the Condor, House of the High Priest and Sacristy were used for ceremonial rituals. One must reserve an entire day to truly appreciate each section of the ruins.
Wayna Picchu
On day two of our Machu Picchu exploration, Michael was determined to get me to hike up Wayna Picchu, the famously steep mountain that serves as the beautiful backdrop to Machu Picchu. We heard the climb was difficult and only for the physically fit. After meandering through the ruins in the morning fog and drizzle, I did not want to chance the nearly 1,200-foot climb up to Wayna Picchu. The trail is slippery, muddy and on that morning, cloaked in fog. The trail isn't supported with rails; a few cables are attached to the side of the mountain and are used for support in the steepest areas of the climb.
To add to the scariness of the climb, only 400 visitors are allowed during the day - 200 in the morning and 200 in the afternoon.
No matter how frightened I was, something inside me told me I needed to take this once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. Michael was thrilled. He gave me a reassuring hug and we walked up to the entrance. The little confidence I had built up quickly vanished after I was required to sign my name in the thick roster at the gate.
I started to shake. It was our turn to hit the trail after numbers 90 and 91 took the first steps. The hike started out easy enough. A simple walk across connecting trails to Wayna Picchu gave a beautiful view of the path ahead. Then we approached steep, slippery steps, followed by shear drop-offs. I concentrated on each step, dodging hikers coming back down the mountain. I often used my hands and knees to climb, grabbing the cables during difficult turns. I stopped once to sob and once to breathe. After an hour, we were finally to the top. The fog hadn't yet lifted, so we waited for the clouds to move, and for a few short seconds had an amazing view of the ruins.
As I climbed down the mountain with my legs shaking, a feeling of serenity came over me. Perhaps I became one with the spiritual world on that mountain top. I pushed the strength of my mind and body to the limit. My thoughts turned to the amazing Peruvian adventure we had experienced thus far. The friendly and proud Peruvian people drew us into their culture and in turn, changed my life for the better.
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