Wednesday, September 28, 2011

Machu Picchu 'must see destination'

A new survey has revealed that many British holidaymakers are keen to take a trip to Machu Picchu in Peru.

According to the latest Intel Visual Wonders of the World poll, the Inca site was chosen by voters from all over the UK as one of the "must-see locations".

The poll, which formed part of Intel's campaign to find out what matters most to the UK travellers, revealed that visitors are attracted to the location because of its "breathtaking views".

A comprehensive travel insurance policy could prove useful for those planning a trip to Peru.

Featured in Intel's Seven Visual Wonders of the World, Machu Picchu offers a unique experience for adventure lovers.

Although tourists can take a day trip to the location, trekking the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu can be a once-in-a-lifetime adventure.

Tourists can enjoy beautiful mountains and other Inca's ruins while trekking. Hikers who take the Inca Trail may wants to go to the Sun Gate and witness the sun rise over the spectacular site.

Train to Machupicchu

When Hiram Bingham first journeyed to the Lost City of the Incas in 1911, there were none of the amenities enjoyed by travellers along the route today. Indeed, there wasn't even a trail to follow, let alone a luxury train for the journey.

The Yale University archeology lecturer had been lured to Peru by rumours of an abandoned city and untold treasures hidden in a secret valley. A couple of local farmers guided him on a perilous hike through dark forests and along plunging cliff sides. Then, on a July day, they crested the granite mountain that looms high above the village of Aguas Calientes, turned a corner and found themselves staring at the fabled Lost City of the Incas.

Since then, thousands of visitors have also discovered what became known as Machu Picchu. (The name means "old peak" in the local Quechuan language, and refers to the mountain that hid it for so many centuries.) In 1983, it was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site; in 2007, it became one of the New Seven Wonders of the World.

It is a magical place that is on many travellers' "bucket lists," and for good reason. But even after the Peruvian government put in the narrow, twisting highway for the busloads of eager tourists, it was never easy to get there.

Until now.

On a sunny morning in the town of Poroy, on the outskirts of Cusco, the Orient Express Hiram Bingham train is ready to depart for Machu Picchu, its engine throbbing gently and its cars gleaming blue and gold in the sunlight.

A smiling conductor checks our tickets and we step aboard into a world of luxury. Like the historic Pullman cars, this train glows with rich colours, lush upholstery, polished panelled walls and attentive service. It's as if a century has slipped elegantly away.

Then the train's whistle blows and we begin our three-and-a-half-hour journey.

We travel through narrow mountain valleys and past forests draped in exotic vines dotted with brilliantly coloured tropical flowers.

We meander alongside the Urumba River as it rushes through the Sacred Valley. We pass the ruins of Inca cities destroyed during the Spanish conquests of the 16th century.

Every once in a while, we glimpse the Inca Trail, the stone path to Machu Picchu that Bingham discovered in 1915. On the trail, hikers struggle manfully in the hot sun and the thin, high-altitude air. As for us, we're being called to the dining car for brunch.

Peru is famous for its cuisine, and as a luxury operator, Orient Express emphasizes the finest local and seasonal ingredients. Brunch is a gourmet meal that starts with a glass of sparkling wine and includes such savoury local delicacies as roast alpaca loin.

We've barely cleared our plates when the train slows and we pull into the village of Aguas Calientes, the nearest community to Machu Picchu, which is 400 metres straight above us. There we board a bus to climb the switchbacks of what has been nicknamed the Hiram Bingham Highway. We try hard not to look down the cliffs that plunge beneath our wheels.

At the top, we meet the guide arranged by Orient Express. He leads us through the ticket booth and along a stone path to the structure known as the Guardhouse. And suddenly we're struck silent, for Machu Picchu lies before us, and nothing has prepared us for its mysterious beauty.

Terraces and stone buildings spread out across a sun-drenched grassy plateau, protected by the iconic sugarloaf mountain known as Huayna Picchu. In the distance, the blue peaks of the Andes line the horizon. A faint mist floats above them, rising from the Amazon jungle that lies just beyond the mountains.

Even now, a century after Bingham's discovery, Machu Picchu remains a mystery. No one knows why the city existed where it did, although some historians suggest that it may have been some sort of religious or educational centre, a sort of Oxford in the Andes.

No one is certain, either, why its inhabitants disappeared. In the 15th century, 1,000 people lived in its 200 buildings; by the 16th, they had disappeared. Some historians believe they were driven out by disease or natural disaster. Whatever the cause, for five centuries only a handful of locals even knew of its existence.

What is certain is that Machu Picchu is a marvel of engineering ingenuity. Somehow the Incas transported heavy stone blocks up the mountainside, then used remarkable masonry skills to fit them together so perfectly they could withstand time, weather and even the onslaught of tourists.

Whatever its origins and purpose, there is no doubt that Machu Picchu is a remarkable site. Its setting is breathtakingly beautiful, and the abandoned buildings hauntingly poignant. But there is something more here, something indefinably spooky, even spiritual, that leaves no visitor untouched.

That may explain the reverent hush in the tea room at the Machu Picchu Sanctuary Lodge where we gather for coca tea and sandwiches after our explorations. That otherworldly mood lasts until the bus carries us back to the market in Aguas Calientes where we put our best haggling skills to the test, bargaining for bobbly alpaca hats and vividly coloured Peruvian shawls. And by the time we board the train back to Cusco, a festive mood has gripped the passengers.

We're greeted on board with a welcoming Pisco Sour, Peru's national cocktail of the local brandy called pisco, lemon, sugar, egg white and bitters, followed by a four-course Peruvian feast that includes a velvety spiced pumpkin cream soup, tender "salmon trout," and fine South American wines. And then it's off to the bar car for live music and one more round of Pisco Sours.

By the time we tumble off the train in Poroy, we're exhausted, happy and changed forever. We suspect Hiram Bingham would be jealous.

Discover Machupicchu

One hundred years ago, an explorer from Yale University made a stunning discovery high in the mountains of Peru. Looking for ruins of the ancient Inca people, Hiram Bingham came upon an abandoned city.

THE WRONG CITY

Bingham was looking for another place, Vilcabamba, the "lost city of the Incas." When he found Machu Picchu (MAHchoo PEE-choo), he believed he had found Vilcabamba.

WELL-PRESERVED RUINS

When Bingham found Machu Picchu, the Inca ruins were in wonderful condition. Even though the city had been built in the 1400s, it had been hidden from Spanish conquerors who had begun to take over the Inca empire about 100 years later. The city's features hadn't been changed or damaged.

AMAZING BUILDING

The Incas who built the buildings and designed the city had great skills. Without any iron tools, they were able to shape the stones so that each one would fit tightly against the others. They probably used round rocks to pound and chip away at the building blocks.

Wednesday, September 14, 2011

Machu Picchu authorities to evaluate entry of 4,400 visitors in two time slots

The technical committee of the Machu Picchu Historical Sanctuary Management Unit (UGM), set up on Tuesday, will conduct a carrying capacity study to evaluate the entry of 4,440 tourists, in two time slots, to the Inca citadel, Peru’s top tourist attraction.
This regulation was adopted following the inaugural session of the UGM, chaired by Cusco's Governor Jorge Acurio, and which was attended by Ministers Ricardo Giesecke, of Environment, and Jose Silva, of Foreign Trade and Tourism.

Also at the meeting, held at Cusco's Regional Government office building, were Deputy Ministers Javier Luna, of Cultural Heritage and Cultural Industries, and Claudia Cornejo, of Tourism, as well as Mayor of Machu Picchu Oscar Valencia.

Acurio explained that the committee, made up of 10 experts, will evaluate the carrying capacity in view of the current demand of visitors to Machu Picchu.

He mentioned that the decision adopted by the UGM regarding the number of visitors allowed to enter the ancient citadel will be applied.

After the completion of the report, it will be evaluated if such decision will be applied until having the new master plan of Machu Picchu, which will be created this year by the UGM.

The master plan came into force on June 1, 2005, and allows the entry of 2,500 tourists per day to the Inca citadel.

Top 3 places you want to see before you kick the bucket

We asked people of the Top 3 places they wish to visit before they kick the bucket, and we rounded up an interesting list—some already on our own lists (Machu Picchu! Angkor Wat!), others we’ve been to and swear by as must visits in one’s lifetime (Russia’s bitter, frigid winter; the idyllic, sunshiny landscape of Tuscany), still others we haven’t even considered but have now piqued our curiosity (the cliffside temples of Bhutan, Alaska’s northern lights, the Tibetan alps).

How about you—what’s on your bucket list?

Bhutan to do some soul searching. The Galapagos to see the penguins. Cape Town, South Africa for its magnificent vistas.—Rhett Eala, fashion designer
1. Angel Falls in Bolívar, Venezuela. I’ve always been fascinated by waterfalls because being in the presence of one humbles me and reminds me of the fact that there’s a greater being in this universe that creates wonderful things such as waterfalls.
2. Machu Picchu in Peru. I’m a world history buff and I’ve read a lot about the Lost City of the Incas, so I’ve always wanted to see the actual place. I think I’ll cry the moment I step into the city.
3. Alaska. It has been a childhood dream of mine to see the aurora borealis/northern lights, and my ultimate wish is to finally be able to visit Alaska to see one during my honeymoon (though first things first, I need to find a husband!).—Miles Montecillo, group director, Ogilvy PR
I’d like to go to Paris with my husband, Andy, because, like they say, it’s the most romantic city in the world. Another place I’d like to visit is Prague—my dad says it’s a spectacular place for sightseeing. Lastly, I’d really love to go to Turkey and do some serious shopping in the Grand Bazaar.—Agoo Bengzon, beauty director, Summit Media

1. The Taj Mahal. I’ve always wanted to see a grand monument made because of love, and not ego or desire to show power.
2. Machu Picchu, Peru. Culture and old civilizations amaze me. We were in Angkor Wat two years ago and I was just blown away at how intelligent and creative we human beings are, even hundred of years ago.
3. Kyoto, Japan. Simply for its beauty, grace and authenticity.—Liza Hernandez-Morales, culinary educator/former hotelier
1. Edinburgh, Scotland. One of the oldest, most historic, most romantic and creepiest cities in the world. I’ve always been partial to castles and centuries-old churches; their facades alone tell stories.
2. Savannah, Georgia/New Orleans, the Deep South of the US. Again, more history, especially in New Orleans at the time when the French and African races mixed and created their own story to tell. Their food alone is centuries’ worth of history.
3. Auschwitz, Poland. I’m deeply interested in the history of the Holocaust and I’d like to see the concentration camps, the place where Holocaust survivor and author Elie Weisel took Oprah years ago.—Vicky Tensuan, editor in chief, Blush magazine
1. Egypt. I always had this fascination for Egypt. I want to see the Pyramids of Giza, see the famous tombs and temples, take a boat ride down the Nile, and, yes, see a Sphinx with my own eyes!
2. Greece. My love for Greek mythology has made Greece part of my bucket list. I want to see the Parthenon, the temple of Athena. I want to go to Delphi, Knossos, the Acropolis of Athens and Olympia.
3. Paris, France. I’m a designer so Paris should be on the list. My partner Bobby stayed in Paris for a while when he studied makeup, and I always enjoy his stories of his visits to the Louvre, the Jardin des Tuileries and Marie Antoinette’s home, Château de Versailles. And, yes, like every tourist, I want to go up the Eiffel Tower.—Louis Claparols, fashion designer
1. Russia. I’ve always loved the story of Anastasia as a little girl. Seeing the palaces and old churches would be amazing.
2. Spain. I would love to spend a week by the Mediterranean and participate in their siesta culture.
3. China. I’ve never been to the motherland, so visiting it has always been on my travel list.—Cindy Go, beauty editor, Preview magazine
The Holy Land, not just because of my religion, but also for its rich history, both biblical and political. Greece, for its beauty and romance. Brazil, for the fun vibe and the beaches. It’s also now the hub in Latin America for fashion, the social scene, among other things. I also want to go to South Africa, but I’d save that for last, because I’m thinking I could die in the jungle! I have to see the Holy Land first so that, in case I die, I could tell God I have been to his birthplace. When I have done that, I can go see Greece for its beauty and history. Then I can go have fun in Brazil!—Anna Legarda, country brand PR manager, P&G Philippines
1. Egypt, because I would like to see the pyramids and other cultural sights.
2. India, because of its rich culture.
3. Tibet, because I find the place so mystical and mysterious.—Anna Go Chia, Rustan’s ads and PR manager
Paris, France, to see the Jardin des Tuileries and have lunch at the Eiffel Tower. The streets of Barcelona, Spain, where I can buy fresh ham and baguettes. Cuba, Brazil or Greece, to dance naked and see where civilization came from.—Lourd Ramos, hairstylist and creative director of Creations by Lourd Ramos Salon
My dream destinations are Istanbul, Prague and Greece. I can learn and maybe connect with each place’s history, culture and traditions.—Henri Calayag, hairstylist and creative director of H Salon
India. I’ve always been fascinated by its music, food and culture. Andalucia, Spain, because I love flamenco and I would love to trace my roots (I was told my dad’s lineage is from there). And Greece, for their culture and food! I’d like to see Santorini and sing “Mamma Mia” by Abba while looking out at the sea!—Niccolo Cosme, photographer
Alaska, because I want to see the glaciers. New Zealand because I want to see all the locations in the “Lord of the Rings” trilogy; I want to cross things off my bucket list and I know New Zealand offers a lot of outdoor activities. Fiji, because I’ve heard how beautiful and serene the place is.—Cat Ilacad, businesswoman/owner, Posh Nails
Egypt, because of the pyramids but I don’t know if it’s a good time to go. Alaska, because I think the landscape is something you can only see there. And Easter Island because of the ruins!—Divine Lee, businesswoman/blogger/TV host
New York. My girlfriend went to New York for one week, inggit ako sobra! I want to watch “Avenue Q” on Broadway! Liverpool, England. I’m a big Beatles fan so Liverpool should be on this list. I want to see Penny Lane, Strawberry Fields, the Cavern and all those other “Beatle” places. Japan. They said it’s like going to another planet.—Jugs Jugueta, musician, Itchyworms
Eastern Europe, Egypt and Russia, because I’m a bit of a history nut and those places intrigue me.—Aimee Marcos, musician/writer
Iguazu Falls. I heard from a friend who’s been there that it’s the biggest thing you’d ever see. And you can feel it from miles away. I’ve always wanted to see Argentina, the other Paris. And I’ve always wanted to be in Vermont in the fall to witness the leaves turn.—Marlon Rivera, president, Publicis; director, fashion designer
Sao Paolo, Brazil because of the beach, the nightlife at the colorful Mardi Gras that can inspire me as an artist. Paris, France—it’s not just the fashion capital of the world, it’s rich in culture and glorious views and the museums are spectacular; my favorite is the Louvre. Discovery Shores in Boracay. It’s really important for me to be able to unwind somewhere a little closer. I’ve gone there a lot of times but it’s still a dream. The food, the service and the killer mojito and the spa treatments you can enjoy in your room make you realize that life is good.—Avel Bacudio, designer/artist
Tuscany has always been my dream place to go because of the natural beauty and charm it has. I love the countryside. It looks peaceful there. My second would be Santorini. I love the architecture and I want to experience the “to-die-for” sunset. And lastly, Turtle Island in Samar, my hometown. It’s a 1.5 hectare virgin island 10 minutes away from our home—very peaceful, raw, you can catch fish and, most of all, the island is free.—Puey Quiñones, designer

The Mystery Tree at Machu Picchu


Not only is Tree Tales fun and educational, but some good friends have been created from communication with other tree lovers. This story shows how lives can intermingle and how wide spread stories can reach. I have a few favorite trees, and on that list would have to be the ginkgo. Tree Tales has shared a few stories revolving around the ginkgo tree and Grace Thomas loves that tree so much that she gave one to her daughter Sue. Sue lives in Minnesota, but that is not too far away for Tree Tales to reach.

Today we have a story from Grace’s daughter who seems to be a traveler and has a few interesting tree pictures. She calls herself a true tree hugger and she sent me a picture to prove it. However, the tree featured today is from the mountains in Peru. The famous site of Machu Picchu situated at the peak of the Andes mountains. Machu Picchu which means ‘Old Peak’ when translated from the Quechua language, is invisible from below, but is surrounded by agricultural terraces sufficient to feed the population that once dwelled there. Water was provided by natural springs.

This site was rediscovered in 1911 by Yale archaeologist Hiram Bingham. Machu Picchu was a most amazing urban creation at the height of the Incan Empire. The origin and history of the Incas is at best, mysterious, although history has credited the Incas for the construction of this monumental feat.

People have lived here for the past 1000 years much like their ancestors by raising potatoes, maize and llamas. Many endangered species call this area their home, including the speckled bear. Some other animals that live here are the dwarf brockett, the otter, long-tailed weasel, pampas cat, ocelot, boa, the Andean cock of the rock and the Andean condor.

When Sue visited Machu Picchu, of course she was intrigued with the tree. She explains, “Whenever you see pictures of that ruin, you will see this tree. I’ve spent some time trying to find out what kind of tree it is, but I haven’t been able to find it.” Sue said she thinks it is some kind of canopy tree, since there are no branches until higher up the tree. If any Tree Tale reader has an idea to what this tree is, please share your knowledge.

Thank you to Sue McCormick for sharing this tree story with us. Thank you to everyone who reads Tree Tales and please send in your stories and pictures. Hope the rest of the year will be tree-if-ic for you.

Peru: Machu Picchu, the Inca Trail, Nazca Lines read more: http://www.tntmagazine.com/tnt-today/archive/2011/08/23/machu-picchu.aspx#ixzz1XzQlQtQL

Machu Picchu and beyond

Celebrate the centenary of the re-discovery of Machu Picchu with a tourist-free trip to the ancient site. Janine Kelso hit the Inca Trail.

I feel like I’ve just stepped into an Indiana Jones movie. Perched on a lush-green ridge sandwiched between two mountain peaks and shrouded in swirling mists that lend the site a mythical glow, Machu Picchu is an arresting sight. After undertaking the four-day, 26-mile Inca Trail trek where we grapple with crumbling stone steps and steep gradients with the aid of Popeye-strong porters, we are rewarded at dawn with a sunrise over one of the world’s top archaeological sites. Choking back tears, there are hugs among our group. The trek was challenging, but it was worth the blisters and lack of oxygen for this drop-dead gorgeous view.

Destination guide: Peru


At this hour, the site is gloriously quiet and free from the busloads of snap-happy tourists donning multi-coloured ponchos and hats with earflaps that arrive mid-morning. For now, though, it’s only the llamas that wander between the ancient stones, chomping on the fluorescent-green land speckled with wild orchids.

We meander freely around the labyrinth of pathways that separate the crumbling buildings, but as I step on to a grassy verge to snatch a quick photo with a llama, a pink ribbon adorning its ears, a guard blows a whistle at me. Oops, I’ve strayed off the track.

As we stroll around the fabled ruins, our guide, Alf, gives us a potted history of the place. Built circa 1450 for the Inca emperor Pachacuti, the Lost City was once a plush palace used by noble folk but it was deserted during the Spanish invasion. According to legend, the Incas chose to build their precious citadel here because of auspicious astronomical and geographical factors.

We’re led to the Intihuatana stone, a ritual rock positioned to point directly at the sun during the winter solstice. We are instructed to press our hands to it to “ground ourselves” and feel its hidden energy. I don’t know if it’s the rock itself or the drama of Machu Picchu, but I feel as though I’ve been touched by something magical.

Although a visit to Machu Picchu via the Inca Trail has been on most travellers’ radars for some time, with millions having followed the famous trek, there’s a renewed buzz about the place this year as the ancient site celebrated the anniversary of its re-discovery last month.

With its remote setting 120km from Cusco, Machu Picchu lay forgotten – well, by Westerners anyway – for 400 years until it was unearthed in 1911 by American archaeologist Hiram Bingham – who was apparently the inspiration behind the Indiana Jones character.

Of course, the natives had known about the existence of the site long before Bingham decided to swing by, but they understandably wanted to keep it to themselves. In fact, some Peruvian scholars are fed up with Bingham being hailed a swashbuckling hero, because he looted the site, taking 44,000 skulls, bones and artefacts to Yale University, 366 of which were returned to Peru in March.

After four days of uphill tramping, our burning muscles are in need of some TLC, so once we return to the nearby village of Aguas Calientas, we head to the hot springs from which the town owes its name.

Soaking in an outdoor hot tub filled with toasty sulphurous waters of 38C, far-reaching mountains providing the verdant backdrop, my friend and I are soon joined by two local teenagers, who waste no time in telling us about their ancestors.

“I’m descended from the Incas,” one of them tells us proudly. “We’re a tall and strong tribe.” Standing just over 5ft, he doesn’t look too tall to me but I’m impressed that the locals are so rightly proud of their roots.

Even though we’ve become accustomed to the high altitude, we indulge in a cup of coca tea, the alpine beverage of choice in Peru. Known as “the divine plant” by the Incas, coca leaves increase the absorption of oxygen into the blood. Cocaine is made from coca leaves but drinking coca tea doesn’t result in any unnatural high – or cause any damage to your health. Leaving behind the remains of Peru’s Inca civilisation and the country’s most-visited site, we take a night bus to the dusty city of Nazca where more mysterious legends abound.

We’ve come to see the town’s famous lines, created by a civilisation that existed long before the Inca Empire. Only viewable from the sky, we head to an airfield where we climb aboard a six-seater Cessna.

“I hope you ladies have strong stomachs,” the pilot grins as we get strapped in. “A lady threw up during the ride yesterday.”

With these reassuring words at the forefront of my mind, I clutch a plastic bag and hope my breakfast stays where it is. As the small plane swings from side to side, I feel faintly nauseous but I soon forget all feelings of sickness as a raft of fascinating shapes springs into view.

There’s a giant pair of hands, a monkey, a condor and a humming bird amongst the cartoon-like geoglyphs. Aside from animals, there are perfectly shaped triangles, rectangles and straight lines.

Etched into the dry plains by the ancient Nazca people more than 2500 years ago, the lines were only discovered in the 1920s when commercial airlines started flying over the desert. Following reports by pilots who had spotted the mysterious shapes, North American historian Paul Kosok went to take a closer look and he is now credited as the official discoverer. Created by removing reddish-coloured pebbles that swathe the landscape, exposing the stark-white earth beneath, the lines have been preserved for so long thanks to the desert’s arid and windless climate which has hindered erosion.

After the flight, we head to a small museum by the airfield, which attempts to explain why the Nazca people created these gargantuan shapes. Baffled scientists and learned folk have spent years coming up with a range of weird and wonderful theories to explain their purpose, especially as they can only be viewed properly from the air.

Some have suggested they provided a landing strip for aliens from outer space, while others ascribe the creation of the lines to religious regions allowing the Gods to view them from the sky. As Nazca people were involved in shamanic practices, some think the lines were produced for shamans to fly over after taking psychedelic drugs.

Two hours from Nazca is the tiny resort of Huacahina, once a retreat for moneyed Peruvians and now a hit with young surfer types who want to give sand-boarding a whirl. Sited next to a palm-fringed lagoon, the region is dominated by giant far-reaching dunes that rise up to 300 metres in height.

We take a buggy up to top of the dunes – an adventure in itself as the vehicle keeps breaking down – and then we’re given wooden boards which we strap to our feet.

As I’m not much of a surfer, it’s slow progress as I struggle to work my way along the slope. I change tack and sit on the board, speeding down the hill sledge-like for a real adrenalin rush.

In a quest to escape the tourist hordes, I decide to take a leaf out of Bingham the explorer’s book and attempt to get off the well-trodden track, heading to the pretty town of Arequipa to see the second largest canyon in the world. Forget the Grand Canyon, the Colca Canyon is twice as deep and doubly impressive.

While the Inca Trail is famously well-trampled, a two-day trek into the Colca Canyon provides a step away from the gringo massive. As I stand at the rim at dawn, the mist-cloaked bottomless pit before me seems other-worldly.

As the haze begins to fade, we spot a condor, or Andean vulture, gliding over the canyon from cliff to cliff, riding the thermals, while showing off its three-metre-long inky-black wings. The bird makes a striking sight and soon the canyon is a hive of condor activity, with hundreds of the creatures taking to the sky, thrilling onlookers by flying nearly close enough so that we can reach out and touch them.
It’s no wonder the birds inspired what must be the world’s most overplayed panpipe tune, El Condor Pasa, covered by Simon and Garfunkel. As the sun rises, the birds disappear to hunt for food and we begin our hike.

My heart begins to thump as we begin to descend into the abyss, taking tentative steps, as the path is rocky and slippery. Terraces have been sliced into the canyon’s verdant hillsides, built by the Collagua and Cabana people in the ninth century. Even today, the locals grow their crops in the same way on these huge staircases. Stretching four miles across at some points, the canyon is an impressive
site, all green valleys and mighty rivers, flanked by two volcanoes.

We set up camp for the night and hit the sack at 9pm as the next day will be an early start. Rising at 4am, my legs turn to jelly as we climb uphill for three hours. At last we’ve made it and we celebrate with a hearty breakfast in the village of Cobanaconde, before driving back to Arequipa.

The days of experiencing Peru as an undiscovered destination – as Bingham did 100 years ago – might be over, but my short adventure has proven that it is possible to go places where tourists aren’t cluttering up the sites.

Luxury train to Machu Picchu wins Conde Nast Traveller award

Orient-Express have announced its multiple wins at the Condé Nast Traveller Reader’s Travel Awards.
The luxury travel company that operates hotels, trains, and cruises across the globe dominated the category for Specialist Train Operators, with its Hiram Bingham train in Peru winning top honours in the revered category and the legendary Venice Simplon-Orient-Express placing third.

Condé Nast Traveller readers chose the Hiram Bingham as their favourite in the world, particularly praising its “standard and comfort of cabins” and “pre-/post- train facilities”.

Named after the explorer who rediscovered Machu Picchu 100 years ago, the Hiram Bingham can seat 84 passengers and provides a luxurious service between Cusco and Machu Picchu.

With distinctive blue and gold livery, dark wood paneling and an elegant interior upholstery in warm, inviting tones, the train consists of four cars: two dining cars, a bar and a kitchen car, and reflects the vintage style of the 1920’s Pullman era.

Once on board passengers are treated to an authentic Andean inspired menu, made with seasonal Peruvian ingredients, and can enjoy traditional Pisco sours as the train meanders through the Peruvian landscape.

A live band provides the backdrop to the scenery, playing Andean music along the route.

For the third year running, the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express has been placed within the top three in the Specialist Train Operators category, a true testimony to the service, iconic journeys, and authentic ambiance that travellers experience on the train as it journeys through Europe.

The annual Condé Nast Traveller Reader’s Travel Awards are one of the most eagerly anticipated awards ceremonies in the international travel industry, with readers asked to write in and vote on their favourite travel companies in categories that range from hotels, spas, airlines, airports and trains.

Voters are then asked to rate their choices accordingly in various categories such as location, ambience and décor, value for money, service, cuisine and environmental friendliness. These votes are calculated as an average on each criterion, which provides the overall satisfaction percentage that decides the winners.

Cusco’s Casa Concha to exhibit Machu Picchu pieces starting October 6

The exhibition of over 360 archaeological pieces from Machu Picchu that were recently returned by the U.S. Yale University will be held at the newly-renovated Casa Concha in the southeastern Cusco region starting October 6, local authorities announced Wednesday.
The rector of Universidad Nacional de San Antonio Abad del Cusco (UNSAAC), Victor Raul Aguilar, said that the objects will be displayed at the first and second courtyard of the manor house located about half a block from Cusco’s main plaza.

Exhibition, security, lightning and audiovisual equipments donated by Yale arrived Monday to the Imperial city from Lima in four containers.

Visitors will be able to appreciate ceramics, stone and metal objects, fragments of bones as well as a nearly complete skeleton of a male between 23 and 25 years.

"The opening is to take place on 6 October. In the meantime, technicians and specialists will arrive from Yale to finish the installation," he told Andina news agency.

Peruvian family claiming Machu Picchu take fight to UN heritage body

A Peruvian family that used to own Machu Picchu is taking its fight for compensation for the Inca citadel from the country's government to the United Nations' heritage body.

The Abril family has already launched five lawsuits in Peru over the matter since 2004 and believes the compensation due could potentially run into hundreds of millions of dollars.

The family were the owners of the estate that included the archaeological ruins when they were 'rediscovered' by the American explorer Hiram Bingham in 1911 and brought to the attention of the world.
Edgar Echegaray Abril, 70, still has the deed of sale dated June 14, 1910, showing that his family paid in gold for the estate where Machu Picchu stands.
In 1944 they sold the estate to the Zavaleta family but the contract stated that the ruins did not form part of the sale as they were being expropriated by the state.
But the expropriation was never formally completed and the Peruvian government has never paid compensation despite long having treated both Machu Picchu and the surrounding land as state property.

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A future in Machu Picchu's past 03 Apr 2011
Fausto Salinas, the lawyer representing the Abrils, is now appealing to Unesco to help settle their compensation claim by putting pressure on Peru's government.
"Unesco must know that the same way it protests to the government when it does not adequately protect Machu Picchu, it also should call its attention to this matter," Mr Salinas said.

"The state said at that time [1944] 'we're going to expropriate,' but the process was never completed, and in Peru, as in international law, if the property is not expropriated from you, you don't lose it." Mr Salinas is also representing the Zavaleta family, which is claiming compensation for 22,000 hectares of land lying inside what is now the Machu Picchu Archaeological Park.
The Peruvian government insists that the land and citadel "belongs to all Peruvians" and that State ownership is recorded in the regional land registry.
But the families claim the registration was carried out improperly in 1997 and is invalid and are now hoping Unesco, which declared the citadel a World Heritage Site in 1983, will help their case.

The number of visitors to Machu Picchu peaked at 858,000 in 2008 but has since been capped and fell to 700,000 in 2010. Around 90 per cent of Peru's tourism revenue is estimated to be linked to the site.

Tuesday, September 6, 2011

Walking the Inca world Machupicchu

By Mark Adams
The New York Times
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Isolated Incan archaeological sites such as Choquequirao and Espiritu Pampa can still be reached only on foot. Most reputable trip outfitters in Cuzco can assemble a made-to-order trip, including the Amazonas Explorer company (www.amazonas-explorer.com).
Lima-based Aracari (www.aracari.com) also offers trips throughout Peru, including to remote sites. Seattle-based Wildland Adventures (www.wildland.com) and REI Adventures (www.reiadventures.com) offer Inca Trail and other treks in Peru.

As we neared the end of a very long climb up a very steep ridge, my guide, John Leivers, shouted at me over his shoulder. "It's said that the Spaniards never found Machu Picchu, but I disagree," he said. I caught up to him — for what seemed like the 20th time that day — and he pointed his bamboo trekking pole at the strangely familiar-looking set of ruins ahead. "It's this place they never found."

He was pointing to Choquequirao, an Incan citadel high in the Peruvian Andes that so closely resembles Machu Picchu that it's often touted as the sister site of South America's most famous ruins. Both are believed to have been built in the 15th century and consist of imposing stone buildings arranged around a central plaza, situated among steep mountain ridges that overlook twisting whitewater rivers, with views of skyscraping peaks.

But there's no question which sibling is more popular.

An estimated 3,000 people make their way through Machu Picchu's corridors on a typical day. Between breakfast and lunch at Choquequirao, I counted 14 people, including myself, Leivers and a few scattered archaeologists.

The first known American to see Choquequirao was the young Yale history lecturer Hiram Bingham III, in 1909. Many believed that the ruins had once been Vilcabamba, the legendary lost city of the Incas. Bingham didn't agree and was mesmerized by the idea of lost cities waiting to be found.

Back again

Two years later, Bingham returned to Peru in search of Vilcabamba. In July 1911, just days into his expedition, Bingham climbed a 2,000-foot-tall slope and encountered an abandoned stone city of which no record existed. It was Machu Picchu.

This year, which marks the 100th anniversary of Bingham's achievement, up to a million visitors are expected at Machu Picchu, a sharp rise from last year's roughly 700,000, one of the highest attendance figures ever.

Most of those pilgrims will hear the tale of Bingham's 1911 trip. But few will know the explorer also located several other major sets of Incan ruins, all of which approach his most famous finds in historic significance.

After Machu Picchu — where he lingered for only a few hours, convinced that more important discoveries lay ahead — Bingham continued his hunt for vanished Incan sites. His 1911 expedition turned out to be one of the most successful in history.

Within a few hundred square miles, he found Vitcos, once an Incan capital, and Espiritu Pampa, a jungle city where the last Incan king is thought to have made a final stand against Spanish invaders. A year later he returned, and came upon Llactapata, a mysterious satellite town two miles west of Machu Picchu whose importance is still being decoded.

I wondered if it was still possible to detour from the modern, tourist path and arrive in the same way Bingham had — by taking the scenic route into Inca history. Aided by Leivers, a 58-year-old Australian expatriate who works with the Cuzco-based adventure outfitter Amazonas Explorer, I assembled a trip to do just that.

Rather than start with the most famous ruins, our route began in Cuzco and looped counterclockwise around them, stopping first at the other extraordinary sites. You might call it a backdoor to Machu Picchu.

A typical Machu Picchu package tour lasts a week. But anyone able to stretch that to 2 ½ weeks — and who has sturdy legs — can hike in blissful solitude through roughly 100 miles of some of the world's most varied and beautiful terrain while pausing to gawk at Bingham's greatest hits. (April through October are the driest months to undertake such a trip.)

Best of all, by circumventing the most common approaches to Machu Picchu — the train from Cuzco and the Inca Trail — the backdoor route avoids the Machu Picchu crowds almost entirely.

Wild lands

Though the little-seen wonders surrounding Machu Picchu exist in an area not much bigger than Los Angeles, Peru's crazy-quilt topography and weather patterns have provided them with a grand and amazingly varied setting. My packing list included long underwear and malaria medicine.

Since there were no proper roads to most of our destinations, Leivers had a team of six mules to carry gear and three men to wrangle them, plus a cook. The four men spoke Quechua, the language of the Andes (and Incas), among themselves, and Spanish to Leivers and me.

The zigzagging trail to Choquequirao, our first stop, was only 20 miles long but required crossing a canyon nearly a mile deep. Leivers, who, when he's not giving tours, spends his time hiking alone through the Andes searching for pre-Columbian ruins, described the journey as "a nice walk."

And it was, for the first hour or so, as we hiked a gentle rise toward the 19,000-foot-high snow-capped Mount Padreyoc. After that, the trail plummeted, crossed the Apurimac River, then rose almost vertically for 5,000 switchbacking feet.

For two days I was so focused on keeping up with Leivers' unwavering pace that I hardly noticed the scenery.

And yet, when we finally entered the Choquequirao ruins on the third morning, I knew the effort was been well spent. As at Machu Picchu, beautiful stone terraces led up to a grassy main plaza. The most important structures had been thoughtfully arranged around this green space. We strolled peacefully through gabled buildings, lined with niches designed to hold mummies and sacred idols.

Though Choquequirao was already well-known locally when Bingham arrived, its hard-to-reach location and scale — the main ruins of Machu Picchu are contained in a compact space of perhaps 20 acres, while the structures of Choquequirao sprawl over hundreds of acres — have slowed efforts to reclaim it from the surrounding cloud forest and restore its buildings to something like their original glory.

"Once this is all cleared, Choquequirao will be one of the most spectacular archaeological sites in the world," Leivers said.

As we departed Choquequirao heading north, Leivers calculated that by the time we reached Machu Picchu, we would have climbed and descended elevations almost equal to walking up Mount Everest from sea level and back down again.

"Trust me, your legs will adapt after a few days," he assured me. And they did, during the roller-coaster four-day walk to Vitcos, about 40 miles on foot.

Incan architects specialized in spectacular entrances, and the path leading into Vitcos was one of their masterpieces: a long, narrow walkway that leads to a majestic stone building, once probably a palace. From that approach, rows of mountains unfold in all directions, giving the visitor the sense of stepping onstage in the world's biggest amphitheater.

But while the stonework of the palace doorways, the site's finest examples of imperial Incan masonry, rivals anything in Peru, what drew Bingham — and me — to Vitcos was the White Rock, an extraordinary carved granite boulder the size of a Winnebago. Abstract geometric shapes were engraved into its eastern face. Its backside was cut into smooth tiers, possibly altars.

Into the jungle

From Vitcos, we started the rough, 30-mile-long trek down — way down — to Espiritu Pampa, once an ancient city in the jungle.

"Up there are the Andes," Leivers said, gesturing backward as we crossed a wobbly suspension bridge. "Down there is the Amazon."

Over the course of three sweaty days, we traversed a marshy basin, climbed to a gap where gale-force winds nearly knocked us over, and passed through a misty, desolate zone dotted with green salt pools and into jungle.

Espiritu Pampa, which the Incas hastily abandoned when attacked by Spanish conquistadors in 1572, has a spooky, frozen-in-time feeling (and it is believed to be the lost city of Vilcabamba that Bingham sought).

Enormous matapalo strangler fig trees loomed over its central plaza, their leaves diffusing the sunlight as it fell on dozens of stone buildings, many of which had toppled into heaps.

Toward Machu Picchu

Leivers promised that Llactapata, one of our last stops before Machu Picchu, would provide an excellent illustration of a theory on Inca life and design.

Over the last 20 years, Johan Reinhard, an anthropologist and National Geographic explorer-in-residence, has developed a theory the Incas laid out their buildings in relation to the paths of the sun and stars, especially those at Machu Picchu that are believed to have been built in the mid-1400s as an estate for an Incan emperor.

Llactapata has been called the "Lost Suburb of the Incas," because it sits directly across the valley from Machu Picchu and, with a decent pair of binoculars, is visible from it.

Leivers showed me how on the morning of the June solstice — the shortest day of the year in the Southern Hemisphere and one of the holiest dates on the Incan calendar — one corridor at Llactapata aligns perfectly with the Sun Temple at Machu Picchu and the exact spot on the horizon where the sun rises. The Incas were superb engineers; such an invisible axis couldn't have been a coincidence.

After descending on foot into the canyon that sits between Llactapata and the Historical Sanctuary of Machu Picchu, an 80,000-acre preserve that contains the main site and the Inca Trail, travelers can catch a train to Machu Picchu. Or, as Leivers and I did, they can slip in the rear entrance by walking the last six miles.

One's first view of Machu Picchu is a bit like seeing the "Mona Lisa" after staring for years at a da Vinci refrigerator magnet. You know exactly what to expect, and at the same time, can't quite believe that the real thing exceeds the hype. Also like the "Mona Lisa," Machu Picchu is more compact than it appears in photos.

In less than an hour Leivers and I were able to visit most of the ruins that Bingham saw 100 years ago, in the same order he had encountered them: the cave of the Royal Mausoleum, with its interior walls that seemed to have melted; the perfect curve of the Sun Temple; the titanic structures of the Sacred Plaza; and, at the very top of the main ruins, the enigmatic Intihuatana stone, around which a throng of mystically inclined visitors stood with their hands extended, hoping to absorb good vibrations.

On the last morning of our trip, feeling crowd-shy, I asked Leivers if he knew of any place at Machu Picchu that Bingham had seen but that most people never bothered to visit. "I know just the spot," he said without hesitating. "Mount Machu Picchu."

Climbing the 1,640-foot-tall staircase to the top of verdant Mount Machu Picchu gave us a condor's-eye view of the ruins. It let us, like Bingham a hundred years before, savor Machu Picchu.