The technical committee of the Machu Picchu Historical Sanctuary Management Unit (UGM), set up on Tuesday, will conduct a carrying capacity study to evaluate the entry of 4,440 tourists, in two time slots, to the Inca citadel, Peru’s top tourist attraction.
This regulation was adopted following the inaugural session of the UGM, chaired by Cusco's Governor Jorge Acurio, and which was attended by Ministers Ricardo Giesecke, of Environment, and Jose Silva, of Foreign Trade and Tourism.
Also at the meeting, held at Cusco's Regional Government office building, were Deputy Ministers Javier Luna, of Cultural Heritage and Cultural Industries, and Claudia Cornejo, of Tourism, as well as Mayor of Machu Picchu Oscar Valencia.
Acurio explained that the committee, made up of 10 experts, will evaluate the carrying capacity in view of the current demand of visitors to Machu Picchu.
He mentioned that the decision adopted by the UGM regarding the number of visitors allowed to enter the ancient citadel will be applied.
After the completion of the report, it will be evaluated if such decision will be applied until having the new master plan of Machu Picchu, which will be created this year by the UGM.
The master plan came into force on June 1, 2005, and allows the entry of 2,500 tourists per day to the Inca citadel.
Wednesday, September 14, 2011
Top 3 places you want to see before you kick the bucket
We asked people of the Top 3 places they wish to visit before they kick the bucket, and we rounded up an interesting list—some already on our own lists (Machu Picchu! Angkor Wat!), others we’ve been to and swear by as must visits in one’s lifetime (Russia’s bitter, frigid winter; the idyllic, sunshiny landscape of Tuscany), still others we haven’t even considered but have now piqued our curiosity (the cliffside temples of Bhutan, Alaska’s northern lights, the Tibetan alps).
How about you—what’s on your bucket list?
Bhutan to do some soul searching. The Galapagos to see the penguins. Cape Town, South Africa for its magnificent vistas.—Rhett Eala, fashion designer
1. Angel Falls in Bolívar, Venezuela. I’ve always been fascinated by waterfalls because being in the presence of one humbles me and reminds me of the fact that there’s a greater being in this universe that creates wonderful things such as waterfalls.
2. Machu Picchu in Peru. I’m a world history buff and I’ve read a lot about the Lost City of the Incas, so I’ve always wanted to see the actual place. I think I’ll cry the moment I step into the city.
3. Alaska. It has been a childhood dream of mine to see the aurora borealis/northern lights, and my ultimate wish is to finally be able to visit Alaska to see one during my honeymoon (though first things first, I need to find a husband!).—Miles Montecillo, group director, Ogilvy PR
I’d like to go to Paris with my husband, Andy, because, like they say, it’s the most romantic city in the world. Another place I’d like to visit is Prague—my dad says it’s a spectacular place for sightseeing. Lastly, I’d really love to go to Turkey and do some serious shopping in the Grand Bazaar.—Agoo Bengzon, beauty director, Summit Media
1. The Taj Mahal. I’ve always wanted to see a grand monument made because of love, and not ego or desire to show power.
2. Machu Picchu, Peru. Culture and old civilizations amaze me. We were in Angkor Wat two years ago and I was just blown away at how intelligent and creative we human beings are, even hundred of years ago.
3. Kyoto, Japan. Simply for its beauty, grace and authenticity.—Liza Hernandez-Morales, culinary educator/former hotelier
1. Edinburgh, Scotland. One of the oldest, most historic, most romantic and creepiest cities in the world. I’ve always been partial to castles and centuries-old churches; their facades alone tell stories.
2. Savannah, Georgia/New Orleans, the Deep South of the US. Again, more history, especially in New Orleans at the time when the French and African races mixed and created their own story to tell. Their food alone is centuries’ worth of history.
3. Auschwitz, Poland. I’m deeply interested in the history of the Holocaust and I’d like to see the concentration camps, the place where Holocaust survivor and author Elie Weisel took Oprah years ago.—Vicky Tensuan, editor in chief, Blush magazine
1. Egypt. I always had this fascination for Egypt. I want to see the Pyramids of Giza, see the famous tombs and temples, take a boat ride down the Nile, and, yes, see a Sphinx with my own eyes!
2. Greece. My love for Greek mythology has made Greece part of my bucket list. I want to see the Parthenon, the temple of Athena. I want to go to Delphi, Knossos, the Acropolis of Athens and Olympia.
3. Paris, France. I’m a designer so Paris should be on the list. My partner Bobby stayed in Paris for a while when he studied makeup, and I always enjoy his stories of his visits to the Louvre, the Jardin des Tuileries and Marie Antoinette’s home, Château de Versailles. And, yes, like every tourist, I want to go up the Eiffel Tower.—Louis Claparols, fashion designer
1. Russia. I’ve always loved the story of Anastasia as a little girl. Seeing the palaces and old churches would be amazing.
2. Spain. I would love to spend a week by the Mediterranean and participate in their siesta culture.
3. China. I’ve never been to the motherland, so visiting it has always been on my travel list.—Cindy Go, beauty editor, Preview magazine
The Holy Land, not just because of my religion, but also for its rich history, both biblical and political. Greece, for its beauty and romance. Brazil, for the fun vibe and the beaches. It’s also now the hub in Latin America for fashion, the social scene, among other things. I also want to go to South Africa, but I’d save that for last, because I’m thinking I could die in the jungle! I have to see the Holy Land first so that, in case I die, I could tell God I have been to his birthplace. When I have done that, I can go see Greece for its beauty and history. Then I can go have fun in Brazil!—Anna Legarda, country brand PR manager, P&G Philippines
1. Egypt, because I would like to see the pyramids and other cultural sights.
2. India, because of its rich culture.
3. Tibet, because I find the place so mystical and mysterious.—Anna Go Chia, Rustan’s ads and PR manager
Paris, France, to see the Jardin des Tuileries and have lunch at the Eiffel Tower. The streets of Barcelona, Spain, where I can buy fresh ham and baguettes. Cuba, Brazil or Greece, to dance naked and see where civilization came from.—Lourd Ramos, hairstylist and creative director of Creations by Lourd Ramos Salon
My dream destinations are Istanbul, Prague and Greece. I can learn and maybe connect with each place’s history, culture and traditions.—Henri Calayag, hairstylist and creative director of H Salon
India. I’ve always been fascinated by its music, food and culture. Andalucia, Spain, because I love flamenco and I would love to trace my roots (I was told my dad’s lineage is from there). And Greece, for their culture and food! I’d like to see Santorini and sing “Mamma Mia” by Abba while looking out at the sea!—Niccolo Cosme, photographer
Alaska, because I want to see the glaciers. New Zealand because I want to see all the locations in the “Lord of the Rings” trilogy; I want to cross things off my bucket list and I know New Zealand offers a lot of outdoor activities. Fiji, because I’ve heard how beautiful and serene the place is.—Cat Ilacad, businesswoman/owner, Posh Nails
Egypt, because of the pyramids but I don’t know if it’s a good time to go. Alaska, because I think the landscape is something you can only see there. And Easter Island because of the ruins!—Divine Lee, businesswoman/blogger/TV host
New York. My girlfriend went to New York for one week, inggit ako sobra! I want to watch “Avenue Q” on Broadway! Liverpool, England. I’m a big Beatles fan so Liverpool should be on this list. I want to see Penny Lane, Strawberry Fields, the Cavern and all those other “Beatle” places. Japan. They said it’s like going to another planet.—Jugs Jugueta, musician, Itchyworms
Eastern Europe, Egypt and Russia, because I’m a bit of a history nut and those places intrigue me.—Aimee Marcos, musician/writer
Iguazu Falls. I heard from a friend who’s been there that it’s the biggest thing you’d ever see. And you can feel it from miles away. I’ve always wanted to see Argentina, the other Paris. And I’ve always wanted to be in Vermont in the fall to witness the leaves turn.—Marlon Rivera, president, Publicis; director, fashion designer
Sao Paolo, Brazil because of the beach, the nightlife at the colorful Mardi Gras that can inspire me as an artist. Paris, France—it’s not just the fashion capital of the world, it’s rich in culture and glorious views and the museums are spectacular; my favorite is the Louvre. Discovery Shores in Boracay. It’s really important for me to be able to unwind somewhere a little closer. I’ve gone there a lot of times but it’s still a dream. The food, the service and the killer mojito and the spa treatments you can enjoy in your room make you realize that life is good.—Avel Bacudio, designer/artist
Tuscany has always been my dream place to go because of the natural beauty and charm it has. I love the countryside. It looks peaceful there. My second would be Santorini. I love the architecture and I want to experience the “to-die-for” sunset. And lastly, Turtle Island in Samar, my hometown. It’s a 1.5 hectare virgin island 10 minutes away from our home—very peaceful, raw, you can catch fish and, most of all, the island is free.—Puey Quiñones, designer
How about you—what’s on your bucket list?
Bhutan to do some soul searching. The Galapagos to see the penguins. Cape Town, South Africa for its magnificent vistas.—Rhett Eala, fashion designer
1. Angel Falls in Bolívar, Venezuela. I’ve always been fascinated by waterfalls because being in the presence of one humbles me and reminds me of the fact that there’s a greater being in this universe that creates wonderful things such as waterfalls.
2. Machu Picchu in Peru. I’m a world history buff and I’ve read a lot about the Lost City of the Incas, so I’ve always wanted to see the actual place. I think I’ll cry the moment I step into the city.
3. Alaska. It has been a childhood dream of mine to see the aurora borealis/northern lights, and my ultimate wish is to finally be able to visit Alaska to see one during my honeymoon (though first things first, I need to find a husband!).—Miles Montecillo, group director, Ogilvy PR
I’d like to go to Paris with my husband, Andy, because, like they say, it’s the most romantic city in the world. Another place I’d like to visit is Prague—my dad says it’s a spectacular place for sightseeing. Lastly, I’d really love to go to Turkey and do some serious shopping in the Grand Bazaar.—Agoo Bengzon, beauty director, Summit Media
1. The Taj Mahal. I’ve always wanted to see a grand monument made because of love, and not ego or desire to show power.
2. Machu Picchu, Peru. Culture and old civilizations amaze me. We were in Angkor Wat two years ago and I was just blown away at how intelligent and creative we human beings are, even hundred of years ago.
3. Kyoto, Japan. Simply for its beauty, grace and authenticity.—Liza Hernandez-Morales, culinary educator/former hotelier
1. Edinburgh, Scotland. One of the oldest, most historic, most romantic and creepiest cities in the world. I’ve always been partial to castles and centuries-old churches; their facades alone tell stories.
2. Savannah, Georgia/New Orleans, the Deep South of the US. Again, more history, especially in New Orleans at the time when the French and African races mixed and created their own story to tell. Their food alone is centuries’ worth of history.
3. Auschwitz, Poland. I’m deeply interested in the history of the Holocaust and I’d like to see the concentration camps, the place where Holocaust survivor and author Elie Weisel took Oprah years ago.—Vicky Tensuan, editor in chief, Blush magazine
1. Egypt. I always had this fascination for Egypt. I want to see the Pyramids of Giza, see the famous tombs and temples, take a boat ride down the Nile, and, yes, see a Sphinx with my own eyes!
2. Greece. My love for Greek mythology has made Greece part of my bucket list. I want to see the Parthenon, the temple of Athena. I want to go to Delphi, Knossos, the Acropolis of Athens and Olympia.
3. Paris, France. I’m a designer so Paris should be on the list. My partner Bobby stayed in Paris for a while when he studied makeup, and I always enjoy his stories of his visits to the Louvre, the Jardin des Tuileries and Marie Antoinette’s home, Château de Versailles. And, yes, like every tourist, I want to go up the Eiffel Tower.—Louis Claparols, fashion designer
1. Russia. I’ve always loved the story of Anastasia as a little girl. Seeing the palaces and old churches would be amazing.
2. Spain. I would love to spend a week by the Mediterranean and participate in their siesta culture.
3. China. I’ve never been to the motherland, so visiting it has always been on my travel list.—Cindy Go, beauty editor, Preview magazine
The Holy Land, not just because of my religion, but also for its rich history, both biblical and political. Greece, for its beauty and romance. Brazil, for the fun vibe and the beaches. It’s also now the hub in Latin America for fashion, the social scene, among other things. I also want to go to South Africa, but I’d save that for last, because I’m thinking I could die in the jungle! I have to see the Holy Land first so that, in case I die, I could tell God I have been to his birthplace. When I have done that, I can go see Greece for its beauty and history. Then I can go have fun in Brazil!—Anna Legarda, country brand PR manager, P&G Philippines
1. Egypt, because I would like to see the pyramids and other cultural sights.
2. India, because of its rich culture.
3. Tibet, because I find the place so mystical and mysterious.—Anna Go Chia, Rustan’s ads and PR manager
Paris, France, to see the Jardin des Tuileries and have lunch at the Eiffel Tower. The streets of Barcelona, Spain, where I can buy fresh ham and baguettes. Cuba, Brazil or Greece, to dance naked and see where civilization came from.—Lourd Ramos, hairstylist and creative director of Creations by Lourd Ramos Salon
My dream destinations are Istanbul, Prague and Greece. I can learn and maybe connect with each place’s history, culture and traditions.—Henri Calayag, hairstylist and creative director of H Salon
India. I’ve always been fascinated by its music, food and culture. Andalucia, Spain, because I love flamenco and I would love to trace my roots (I was told my dad’s lineage is from there). And Greece, for their culture and food! I’d like to see Santorini and sing “Mamma Mia” by Abba while looking out at the sea!—Niccolo Cosme, photographer
Alaska, because I want to see the glaciers. New Zealand because I want to see all the locations in the “Lord of the Rings” trilogy; I want to cross things off my bucket list and I know New Zealand offers a lot of outdoor activities. Fiji, because I’ve heard how beautiful and serene the place is.—Cat Ilacad, businesswoman/owner, Posh Nails
Egypt, because of the pyramids but I don’t know if it’s a good time to go. Alaska, because I think the landscape is something you can only see there. And Easter Island because of the ruins!—Divine Lee, businesswoman/blogger/TV host
New York. My girlfriend went to New York for one week, inggit ako sobra! I want to watch “Avenue Q” on Broadway! Liverpool, England. I’m a big Beatles fan so Liverpool should be on this list. I want to see Penny Lane, Strawberry Fields, the Cavern and all those other “Beatle” places. Japan. They said it’s like going to another planet.—Jugs Jugueta, musician, Itchyworms
Eastern Europe, Egypt and Russia, because I’m a bit of a history nut and those places intrigue me.—Aimee Marcos, musician/writer
Iguazu Falls. I heard from a friend who’s been there that it’s the biggest thing you’d ever see. And you can feel it from miles away. I’ve always wanted to see Argentina, the other Paris. And I’ve always wanted to be in Vermont in the fall to witness the leaves turn.—Marlon Rivera, president, Publicis; director, fashion designer
Sao Paolo, Brazil because of the beach, the nightlife at the colorful Mardi Gras that can inspire me as an artist. Paris, France—it’s not just the fashion capital of the world, it’s rich in culture and glorious views and the museums are spectacular; my favorite is the Louvre. Discovery Shores in Boracay. It’s really important for me to be able to unwind somewhere a little closer. I’ve gone there a lot of times but it’s still a dream. The food, the service and the killer mojito and the spa treatments you can enjoy in your room make you realize that life is good.—Avel Bacudio, designer/artist
Tuscany has always been my dream place to go because of the natural beauty and charm it has. I love the countryside. It looks peaceful there. My second would be Santorini. I love the architecture and I want to experience the “to-die-for” sunset. And lastly, Turtle Island in Samar, my hometown. It’s a 1.5 hectare virgin island 10 minutes away from our home—very peaceful, raw, you can catch fish and, most of all, the island is free.—Puey Quiñones, designer
The Mystery Tree at Machu Picchu
Not only is Tree Tales fun and educational, but some good friends have been created from communication with other tree lovers. This story shows how lives can intermingle and how wide spread stories can reach. I have a few favorite trees, and on that list would have to be the ginkgo. Tree Tales has shared a few stories revolving around the ginkgo tree and Grace Thomas loves that tree so much that she gave one to her daughter Sue. Sue lives in Minnesota, but that is not too far away for Tree Tales to reach.
Today we have a story from Grace’s daughter who seems to be a traveler and has a few interesting tree pictures. She calls herself a true tree hugger and she sent me a picture to prove it. However, the tree featured today is from the mountains in Peru. The famous site of Machu Picchu situated at the peak of the Andes mountains. Machu Picchu which means ‘Old Peak’ when translated from the Quechua language, is invisible from below, but is surrounded by agricultural terraces sufficient to feed the population that once dwelled there. Water was provided by natural springs.
This site was rediscovered in 1911 by Yale archaeologist Hiram Bingham. Machu Picchu was a most amazing urban creation at the height of the Incan Empire. The origin and history of the Incas is at best, mysterious, although history has credited the Incas for the construction of this monumental feat.
People have lived here for the past 1000 years much like their ancestors by raising potatoes, maize and llamas. Many endangered species call this area their home, including the speckled bear. Some other animals that live here are the dwarf brockett, the otter, long-tailed weasel, pampas cat, ocelot, boa, the Andean cock of the rock and the Andean condor.
When Sue visited Machu Picchu, of course she was intrigued with the tree. She explains, “Whenever you see pictures of that ruin, you will see this tree. I’ve spent some time trying to find out what kind of tree it is, but I haven’t been able to find it.” Sue said she thinks it is some kind of canopy tree, since there are no branches until higher up the tree. If any Tree Tale reader has an idea to what this tree is, please share your knowledge.
Thank you to Sue McCormick for sharing this tree story with us. Thank you to everyone who reads Tree Tales and please send in your stories and pictures. Hope the rest of the year will be tree-if-ic for you.
Peru: Machu Picchu, the Inca Trail, Nazca Lines read more: http://www.tntmagazine.com/tnt-today/archive/2011/08/23/machu-picchu.aspx#ixzz1XzQlQtQL
Machu Picchu and beyond
Celebrate the centenary of the re-discovery of Machu Picchu with a tourist-free trip to the ancient site. Janine Kelso hit the Inca Trail.
I feel like I’ve just stepped into an Indiana Jones movie. Perched on a lush-green ridge sandwiched between two mountain peaks and shrouded in swirling mists that lend the site a mythical glow, Machu Picchu is an arresting sight. After undertaking the four-day, 26-mile Inca Trail trek where we grapple with crumbling stone steps and steep gradients with the aid of Popeye-strong porters, we are rewarded at dawn with a sunrise over one of the world’s top archaeological sites. Choking back tears, there are hugs among our group. The trek was challenging, but it was worth the blisters and lack of oxygen for this drop-dead gorgeous view.
Destination guide: Peru
At this hour, the site is gloriously quiet and free from the busloads of snap-happy tourists donning multi-coloured ponchos and hats with earflaps that arrive mid-morning. For now, though, it’s only the llamas that wander between the ancient stones, chomping on the fluorescent-green land speckled with wild orchids.
We meander freely around the labyrinth of pathways that separate the crumbling buildings, but as I step on to a grassy verge to snatch a quick photo with a llama, a pink ribbon adorning its ears, a guard blows a whistle at me. Oops, I’ve strayed off the track.
As we stroll around the fabled ruins, our guide, Alf, gives us a potted history of the place. Built circa 1450 for the Inca emperor Pachacuti, the Lost City was once a plush palace used by noble folk but it was deserted during the Spanish invasion. According to legend, the Incas chose to build their precious citadel here because of auspicious astronomical and geographical factors.
We’re led to the Intihuatana stone, a ritual rock positioned to point directly at the sun during the winter solstice. We are instructed to press our hands to it to “ground ourselves” and feel its hidden energy. I don’t know if it’s the rock itself or the drama of Machu Picchu, but I feel as though I’ve been touched by something magical.
Although a visit to Machu Picchu via the Inca Trail has been on most travellers’ radars for some time, with millions having followed the famous trek, there’s a renewed buzz about the place this year as the ancient site celebrated the anniversary of its re-discovery last month.
With its remote setting 120km from Cusco, Machu Picchu lay forgotten – well, by Westerners anyway – for 400 years until it was unearthed in 1911 by American archaeologist Hiram Bingham – who was apparently the inspiration behind the Indiana Jones character.
Of course, the natives had known about the existence of the site long before Bingham decided to swing by, but they understandably wanted to keep it to themselves. In fact, some Peruvian scholars are fed up with Bingham being hailed a swashbuckling hero, because he looted the site, taking 44,000 skulls, bones and artefacts to Yale University, 366 of which were returned to Peru in March.
After four days of uphill tramping, our burning muscles are in need of some TLC, so once we return to the nearby village of Aguas Calientas, we head to the hot springs from which the town owes its name.
Soaking in an outdoor hot tub filled with toasty sulphurous waters of 38C, far-reaching mountains providing the verdant backdrop, my friend and I are soon joined by two local teenagers, who waste no time in telling us about their ancestors.
“I’m descended from the Incas,” one of them tells us proudly. “We’re a tall and strong tribe.” Standing just over 5ft, he doesn’t look too tall to me but I’m impressed that the locals are so rightly proud of their roots.
Even though we’ve become accustomed to the high altitude, we indulge in a cup of coca tea, the alpine beverage of choice in Peru. Known as “the divine plant” by the Incas, coca leaves increase the absorption of oxygen into the blood. Cocaine is made from coca leaves but drinking coca tea doesn’t result in any unnatural high – or cause any damage to your health. Leaving behind the remains of Peru’s Inca civilisation and the country’s most-visited site, we take a night bus to the dusty city of Nazca where more mysterious legends abound.
We’ve come to see the town’s famous lines, created by a civilisation that existed long before the Inca Empire. Only viewable from the sky, we head to an airfield where we climb aboard a six-seater Cessna.
“I hope you ladies have strong stomachs,” the pilot grins as we get strapped in. “A lady threw up during the ride yesterday.”
With these reassuring words at the forefront of my mind, I clutch a plastic bag and hope my breakfast stays where it is. As the small plane swings from side to side, I feel faintly nauseous but I soon forget all feelings of sickness as a raft of fascinating shapes springs into view.
There’s a giant pair of hands, a monkey, a condor and a humming bird amongst the cartoon-like geoglyphs. Aside from animals, there are perfectly shaped triangles, rectangles and straight lines.
Etched into the dry plains by the ancient Nazca people more than 2500 years ago, the lines were only discovered in the 1920s when commercial airlines started flying over the desert. Following reports by pilots who had spotted the mysterious shapes, North American historian Paul Kosok went to take a closer look and he is now credited as the official discoverer. Created by removing reddish-coloured pebbles that swathe the landscape, exposing the stark-white earth beneath, the lines have been preserved for so long thanks to the desert’s arid and windless climate which has hindered erosion.
After the flight, we head to a small museum by the airfield, which attempts to explain why the Nazca people created these gargantuan shapes. Baffled scientists and learned folk have spent years coming up with a range of weird and wonderful theories to explain their purpose, especially as they can only be viewed properly from the air.
Some have suggested they provided a landing strip for aliens from outer space, while others ascribe the creation of the lines to religious regions allowing the Gods to view them from the sky. As Nazca people were involved in shamanic practices, some think the lines were produced for shamans to fly over after taking psychedelic drugs.
Two hours from Nazca is the tiny resort of Huacahina, once a retreat for moneyed Peruvians and now a hit with young surfer types who want to give sand-boarding a whirl. Sited next to a palm-fringed lagoon, the region is dominated by giant far-reaching dunes that rise up to 300 metres in height.
We take a buggy up to top of the dunes – an adventure in itself as the vehicle keeps breaking down – and then we’re given wooden boards which we strap to our feet.
As I’m not much of a surfer, it’s slow progress as I struggle to work my way along the slope. I change tack and sit on the board, speeding down the hill sledge-like for a real adrenalin rush.
In a quest to escape the tourist hordes, I decide to take a leaf out of Bingham the explorer’s book and attempt to get off the well-trodden track, heading to the pretty town of Arequipa to see the second largest canyon in the world. Forget the Grand Canyon, the Colca Canyon is twice as deep and doubly impressive.
While the Inca Trail is famously well-trampled, a two-day trek into the Colca Canyon provides a step away from the gringo massive. As I stand at the rim at dawn, the mist-cloaked bottomless pit before me seems other-worldly.
As the haze begins to fade, we spot a condor, or Andean vulture, gliding over the canyon from cliff to cliff, riding the thermals, while showing off its three-metre-long inky-black wings. The bird makes a striking sight and soon the canyon is a hive of condor activity, with hundreds of the creatures taking to the sky, thrilling onlookers by flying nearly close enough so that we can reach out and touch them.
It’s no wonder the birds inspired what must be the world’s most overplayed panpipe tune, El Condor Pasa, covered by Simon and Garfunkel. As the sun rises, the birds disappear to hunt for food and we begin our hike.
My heart begins to thump as we begin to descend into the abyss, taking tentative steps, as the path is rocky and slippery. Terraces have been sliced into the canyon’s verdant hillsides, built by the Collagua and Cabana people in the ninth century. Even today, the locals grow their crops in the same way on these huge staircases. Stretching four miles across at some points, the canyon is an impressive
site, all green valleys and mighty rivers, flanked by two volcanoes.
We set up camp for the night and hit the sack at 9pm as the next day will be an early start. Rising at 4am, my legs turn to jelly as we climb uphill for three hours. At last we’ve made it and we celebrate with a hearty breakfast in the village of Cobanaconde, before driving back to Arequipa.
The days of experiencing Peru as an undiscovered destination – as Bingham did 100 years ago – might be over, but my short adventure has proven that it is possible to go places where tourists aren’t cluttering up the sites.
Celebrate the centenary of the re-discovery of Machu Picchu with a tourist-free trip to the ancient site. Janine Kelso hit the Inca Trail.
I feel like I’ve just stepped into an Indiana Jones movie. Perched on a lush-green ridge sandwiched between two mountain peaks and shrouded in swirling mists that lend the site a mythical glow, Machu Picchu is an arresting sight. After undertaking the four-day, 26-mile Inca Trail trek where we grapple with crumbling stone steps and steep gradients with the aid of Popeye-strong porters, we are rewarded at dawn with a sunrise over one of the world’s top archaeological sites. Choking back tears, there are hugs among our group. The trek was challenging, but it was worth the blisters and lack of oxygen for this drop-dead gorgeous view.
Destination guide: Peru
At this hour, the site is gloriously quiet and free from the busloads of snap-happy tourists donning multi-coloured ponchos and hats with earflaps that arrive mid-morning. For now, though, it’s only the llamas that wander between the ancient stones, chomping on the fluorescent-green land speckled with wild orchids.
We meander freely around the labyrinth of pathways that separate the crumbling buildings, but as I step on to a grassy verge to snatch a quick photo with a llama, a pink ribbon adorning its ears, a guard blows a whistle at me. Oops, I’ve strayed off the track.
As we stroll around the fabled ruins, our guide, Alf, gives us a potted history of the place. Built circa 1450 for the Inca emperor Pachacuti, the Lost City was once a plush palace used by noble folk but it was deserted during the Spanish invasion. According to legend, the Incas chose to build their precious citadel here because of auspicious astronomical and geographical factors.
We’re led to the Intihuatana stone, a ritual rock positioned to point directly at the sun during the winter solstice. We are instructed to press our hands to it to “ground ourselves” and feel its hidden energy. I don’t know if it’s the rock itself or the drama of Machu Picchu, but I feel as though I’ve been touched by something magical.
Although a visit to Machu Picchu via the Inca Trail has been on most travellers’ radars for some time, with millions having followed the famous trek, there’s a renewed buzz about the place this year as the ancient site celebrated the anniversary of its re-discovery last month.
With its remote setting 120km from Cusco, Machu Picchu lay forgotten – well, by Westerners anyway – for 400 years until it was unearthed in 1911 by American archaeologist Hiram Bingham – who was apparently the inspiration behind the Indiana Jones character.
Of course, the natives had known about the existence of the site long before Bingham decided to swing by, but they understandably wanted to keep it to themselves. In fact, some Peruvian scholars are fed up with Bingham being hailed a swashbuckling hero, because he looted the site, taking 44,000 skulls, bones and artefacts to Yale University, 366 of which were returned to Peru in March.
After four days of uphill tramping, our burning muscles are in need of some TLC, so once we return to the nearby village of Aguas Calientas, we head to the hot springs from which the town owes its name.
Soaking in an outdoor hot tub filled with toasty sulphurous waters of 38C, far-reaching mountains providing the verdant backdrop, my friend and I are soon joined by two local teenagers, who waste no time in telling us about their ancestors.
“I’m descended from the Incas,” one of them tells us proudly. “We’re a tall and strong tribe.” Standing just over 5ft, he doesn’t look too tall to me but I’m impressed that the locals are so rightly proud of their roots.
Even though we’ve become accustomed to the high altitude, we indulge in a cup of coca tea, the alpine beverage of choice in Peru. Known as “the divine plant” by the Incas, coca leaves increase the absorption of oxygen into the blood. Cocaine is made from coca leaves but drinking coca tea doesn’t result in any unnatural high – or cause any damage to your health. Leaving behind the remains of Peru’s Inca civilisation and the country’s most-visited site, we take a night bus to the dusty city of Nazca where more mysterious legends abound.
We’ve come to see the town’s famous lines, created by a civilisation that existed long before the Inca Empire. Only viewable from the sky, we head to an airfield where we climb aboard a six-seater Cessna.
“I hope you ladies have strong stomachs,” the pilot grins as we get strapped in. “A lady threw up during the ride yesterday.”
With these reassuring words at the forefront of my mind, I clutch a plastic bag and hope my breakfast stays where it is. As the small plane swings from side to side, I feel faintly nauseous but I soon forget all feelings of sickness as a raft of fascinating shapes springs into view.
There’s a giant pair of hands, a monkey, a condor and a humming bird amongst the cartoon-like geoglyphs. Aside from animals, there are perfectly shaped triangles, rectangles and straight lines.
Etched into the dry plains by the ancient Nazca people more than 2500 years ago, the lines were only discovered in the 1920s when commercial airlines started flying over the desert. Following reports by pilots who had spotted the mysterious shapes, North American historian Paul Kosok went to take a closer look and he is now credited as the official discoverer. Created by removing reddish-coloured pebbles that swathe the landscape, exposing the stark-white earth beneath, the lines have been preserved for so long thanks to the desert’s arid and windless climate which has hindered erosion.
After the flight, we head to a small museum by the airfield, which attempts to explain why the Nazca people created these gargantuan shapes. Baffled scientists and learned folk have spent years coming up with a range of weird and wonderful theories to explain their purpose, especially as they can only be viewed properly from the air.
Some have suggested they provided a landing strip for aliens from outer space, while others ascribe the creation of the lines to religious regions allowing the Gods to view them from the sky. As Nazca people were involved in shamanic practices, some think the lines were produced for shamans to fly over after taking psychedelic drugs.
Two hours from Nazca is the tiny resort of Huacahina, once a retreat for moneyed Peruvians and now a hit with young surfer types who want to give sand-boarding a whirl. Sited next to a palm-fringed lagoon, the region is dominated by giant far-reaching dunes that rise up to 300 metres in height.
We take a buggy up to top of the dunes – an adventure in itself as the vehicle keeps breaking down – and then we’re given wooden boards which we strap to our feet.
As I’m not much of a surfer, it’s slow progress as I struggle to work my way along the slope. I change tack and sit on the board, speeding down the hill sledge-like for a real adrenalin rush.
In a quest to escape the tourist hordes, I decide to take a leaf out of Bingham the explorer’s book and attempt to get off the well-trodden track, heading to the pretty town of Arequipa to see the second largest canyon in the world. Forget the Grand Canyon, the Colca Canyon is twice as deep and doubly impressive.
While the Inca Trail is famously well-trampled, a two-day trek into the Colca Canyon provides a step away from the gringo massive. As I stand at the rim at dawn, the mist-cloaked bottomless pit before me seems other-worldly.
As the haze begins to fade, we spot a condor, or Andean vulture, gliding over the canyon from cliff to cliff, riding the thermals, while showing off its three-metre-long inky-black wings. The bird makes a striking sight and soon the canyon is a hive of condor activity, with hundreds of the creatures taking to the sky, thrilling onlookers by flying nearly close enough so that we can reach out and touch them.
It’s no wonder the birds inspired what must be the world’s most overplayed panpipe tune, El Condor Pasa, covered by Simon and Garfunkel. As the sun rises, the birds disappear to hunt for food and we begin our hike.
My heart begins to thump as we begin to descend into the abyss, taking tentative steps, as the path is rocky and slippery. Terraces have been sliced into the canyon’s verdant hillsides, built by the Collagua and Cabana people in the ninth century. Even today, the locals grow their crops in the same way on these huge staircases. Stretching four miles across at some points, the canyon is an impressive
site, all green valleys and mighty rivers, flanked by two volcanoes.
We set up camp for the night and hit the sack at 9pm as the next day will be an early start. Rising at 4am, my legs turn to jelly as we climb uphill for three hours. At last we’ve made it and we celebrate with a hearty breakfast in the village of Cobanaconde, before driving back to Arequipa.
The days of experiencing Peru as an undiscovered destination – as Bingham did 100 years ago – might be over, but my short adventure has proven that it is possible to go places where tourists aren’t cluttering up the sites.
Luxury train to Machu Picchu wins Conde Nast Traveller award
Orient-Express have announced its multiple wins at the Condé Nast Traveller Reader’s Travel Awards.
The luxury travel company that operates hotels, trains, and cruises across the globe dominated the category for Specialist Train Operators, with its Hiram Bingham train in Peru winning top honours in the revered category and the legendary Venice Simplon-Orient-Express placing third.
Condé Nast Traveller readers chose the Hiram Bingham as their favourite in the world, particularly praising its “standard and comfort of cabins” and “pre-/post- train facilities”.
Named after the explorer who rediscovered Machu Picchu 100 years ago, the Hiram Bingham can seat 84 passengers and provides a luxurious service between Cusco and Machu Picchu.
With distinctive blue and gold livery, dark wood paneling and an elegant interior upholstery in warm, inviting tones, the train consists of four cars: two dining cars, a bar and a kitchen car, and reflects the vintage style of the 1920’s Pullman era.
Once on board passengers are treated to an authentic Andean inspired menu, made with seasonal Peruvian ingredients, and can enjoy traditional Pisco sours as the train meanders through the Peruvian landscape.
A live band provides the backdrop to the scenery, playing Andean music along the route.
For the third year running, the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express has been placed within the top three in the Specialist Train Operators category, a true testimony to the service, iconic journeys, and authentic ambiance that travellers experience on the train as it journeys through Europe.
The annual Condé Nast Traveller Reader’s Travel Awards are one of the most eagerly anticipated awards ceremonies in the international travel industry, with readers asked to write in and vote on their favourite travel companies in categories that range from hotels, spas, airlines, airports and trains.
Voters are then asked to rate their choices accordingly in various categories such as location, ambience and décor, value for money, service, cuisine and environmental friendliness. These votes are calculated as an average on each criterion, which provides the overall satisfaction percentage that decides the winners.
The luxury travel company that operates hotels, trains, and cruises across the globe dominated the category for Specialist Train Operators, with its Hiram Bingham train in Peru winning top honours in the revered category and the legendary Venice Simplon-Orient-Express placing third.
Condé Nast Traveller readers chose the Hiram Bingham as their favourite in the world, particularly praising its “standard and comfort of cabins” and “pre-/post- train facilities”.
Named after the explorer who rediscovered Machu Picchu 100 years ago, the Hiram Bingham can seat 84 passengers and provides a luxurious service between Cusco and Machu Picchu.
With distinctive blue and gold livery, dark wood paneling and an elegant interior upholstery in warm, inviting tones, the train consists of four cars: two dining cars, a bar and a kitchen car, and reflects the vintage style of the 1920’s Pullman era.
Once on board passengers are treated to an authentic Andean inspired menu, made with seasonal Peruvian ingredients, and can enjoy traditional Pisco sours as the train meanders through the Peruvian landscape.
A live band provides the backdrop to the scenery, playing Andean music along the route.
For the third year running, the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express has been placed within the top three in the Specialist Train Operators category, a true testimony to the service, iconic journeys, and authentic ambiance that travellers experience on the train as it journeys through Europe.
The annual Condé Nast Traveller Reader’s Travel Awards are one of the most eagerly anticipated awards ceremonies in the international travel industry, with readers asked to write in and vote on their favourite travel companies in categories that range from hotels, spas, airlines, airports and trains.
Voters are then asked to rate their choices accordingly in various categories such as location, ambience and décor, value for money, service, cuisine and environmental friendliness. These votes are calculated as an average on each criterion, which provides the overall satisfaction percentage that decides the winners.
Cusco’s Casa Concha to exhibit Machu Picchu pieces starting October 6
The exhibition of over 360 archaeological pieces from Machu Picchu that were recently returned by the U.S. Yale University will be held at the newly-renovated Casa Concha in the southeastern Cusco region starting October 6, local authorities announced Wednesday.
The rector of Universidad Nacional de San Antonio Abad del Cusco (UNSAAC), Victor Raul Aguilar, said that the objects will be displayed at the first and second courtyard of the manor house located about half a block from Cusco’s main plaza.
Exhibition, security, lightning and audiovisual equipments donated by Yale arrived Monday to the Imperial city from Lima in four containers.
Visitors will be able to appreciate ceramics, stone and metal objects, fragments of bones as well as a nearly complete skeleton of a male between 23 and 25 years.
"The opening is to take place on 6 October. In the meantime, technicians and specialists will arrive from Yale to finish the installation," he told Andina news agency.
The rector of Universidad Nacional de San Antonio Abad del Cusco (UNSAAC), Victor Raul Aguilar, said that the objects will be displayed at the first and second courtyard of the manor house located about half a block from Cusco’s main plaza.
Exhibition, security, lightning and audiovisual equipments donated by Yale arrived Monday to the Imperial city from Lima in four containers.
Visitors will be able to appreciate ceramics, stone and metal objects, fragments of bones as well as a nearly complete skeleton of a male between 23 and 25 years.
"The opening is to take place on 6 October. In the meantime, technicians and specialists will arrive from Yale to finish the installation," he told Andina news agency.
Peruvian family claiming Machu Picchu take fight to UN heritage body
A Peruvian family that used to own Machu Picchu is taking its fight for compensation for the Inca citadel from the country's government to the United Nations' heritage body.
The Abril family has already launched five lawsuits in Peru over the matter since 2004 and believes the compensation due could potentially run into hundreds of millions of dollars.
The family were the owners of the estate that included the archaeological ruins when they were 'rediscovered' by the American explorer Hiram Bingham in 1911 and brought to the attention of the world.
Edgar Echegaray Abril, 70, still has the deed of sale dated June 14, 1910, showing that his family paid in gold for the estate where Machu Picchu stands.
In 1944 they sold the estate to the Zavaleta family but the contract stated that the ruins did not form part of the sale as they were being expropriated by the state.
But the expropriation was never formally completed and the Peruvian government has never paid compensation despite long having treated both Machu Picchu and the surrounding land as state property.
RELATED ARTICLES
A future in Machu Picchu's past 03 Apr 2011
Fausto Salinas, the lawyer representing the Abrils, is now appealing to Unesco to help settle their compensation claim by putting pressure on Peru's government.
"Unesco must know that the same way it protests to the government when it does not adequately protect Machu Picchu, it also should call its attention to this matter," Mr Salinas said.
"The state said at that time [1944] 'we're going to expropriate,' but the process was never completed, and in Peru, as in international law, if the property is not expropriated from you, you don't lose it." Mr Salinas is also representing the Zavaleta family, which is claiming compensation for 22,000 hectares of land lying inside what is now the Machu Picchu Archaeological Park.
The Peruvian government insists that the land and citadel "belongs to all Peruvians" and that State ownership is recorded in the regional land registry.
But the families claim the registration was carried out improperly in 1997 and is invalid and are now hoping Unesco, which declared the citadel a World Heritage Site in 1983, will help their case.
The number of visitors to Machu Picchu peaked at 858,000 in 2008 but has since been capped and fell to 700,000 in 2010. Around 90 per cent of Peru's tourism revenue is estimated to be linked to the site.
The Abril family has already launched five lawsuits in Peru over the matter since 2004 and believes the compensation due could potentially run into hundreds of millions of dollars.
The family were the owners of the estate that included the archaeological ruins when they were 'rediscovered' by the American explorer Hiram Bingham in 1911 and brought to the attention of the world.
Edgar Echegaray Abril, 70, still has the deed of sale dated June 14, 1910, showing that his family paid in gold for the estate where Machu Picchu stands.
In 1944 they sold the estate to the Zavaleta family but the contract stated that the ruins did not form part of the sale as they were being expropriated by the state.
But the expropriation was never formally completed and the Peruvian government has never paid compensation despite long having treated both Machu Picchu and the surrounding land as state property.
RELATED ARTICLES
A future in Machu Picchu's past 03 Apr 2011
Fausto Salinas, the lawyer representing the Abrils, is now appealing to Unesco to help settle their compensation claim by putting pressure on Peru's government.
"Unesco must know that the same way it protests to the government when it does not adequately protect Machu Picchu, it also should call its attention to this matter," Mr Salinas said.
"The state said at that time [1944] 'we're going to expropriate,' but the process was never completed, and in Peru, as in international law, if the property is not expropriated from you, you don't lose it." Mr Salinas is also representing the Zavaleta family, which is claiming compensation for 22,000 hectares of land lying inside what is now the Machu Picchu Archaeological Park.
The Peruvian government insists that the land and citadel "belongs to all Peruvians" and that State ownership is recorded in the regional land registry.
But the families claim the registration was carried out improperly in 1997 and is invalid and are now hoping Unesco, which declared the citadel a World Heritage Site in 1983, will help their case.
The number of visitors to Machu Picchu peaked at 858,000 in 2008 but has since been capped and fell to 700,000 in 2010. Around 90 per cent of Peru's tourism revenue is estimated to be linked to the site.
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